Cold war rumor referred to remote Bolivia as the safest place to hide during a nuclear attack. WIthout renouncing contemporary inventions like the Internet, smartphones and designer drugs, Bolivia remains aloof from modern trends of monotony.

The fact that the country has remained so remote from world consciousness may be to her advantage.  Lush semi-tropical swimming holes blissfully free of sleek, manicured tourists. Pop-stars are in rare supply, so centuries-old harmonies and dance steps as well as home-grown fusion, Latin, rock and jazz rule the dance halls. Tiny indigenous women rule the streets in their smart bowler hats and pigtails.

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Every person who has just wrapped up a "big SA trip" goes out of their way to sing the praises of this often overlooked gem. It's a bit of a traveler secret, but one that won't stay quiet for long if the increasing number of backpackers is any indication.

Our Rating. 8/10

Foreigners who choose to visit such a remote & unpublicized country are not an ordinary breed. It attracts the most stimulating & enlightened world adventurers & we hope you'll soon be one of them.

Get Your Bearings.

Touch the sky in Andes, skinny dip in the aptly named and internationally worshipped Lake Titicaca, or test your limits with an Amazon encounter (swimming with pink dolphins and piranhas, anyone?).

 Bolivia offers more activities than a backpacker could ever hope for. Better still, the prices mean you can actually make ALL these adventures your own, rather than having to pick and choose, and still have enough to live like a king for the rest of your trip.

The Rad.

If it had a beach, Bolivia would have the backpacker game on lock.  Manageable size, inexpensive transport, unique culture and budding tourist infrastructure make it possible to go from 15k feet to 100ft below ground, with a few stops at the Amazon, Butch Cassidy's wild west, the World's Most Dangerous Road and the otherworldly Salt Flats in between.

The Bad.

I met one person who hated on Bolivia for all the reasons it enchanted me.  A lack of development means trash often litters incredible natural sites, creature comforts (Coca-Cola, McDonalds, hot water) can be hard to come by and the lack of a tourist infrastructure means minimal regulations and standards on tours run by guides that most likely do not speak English.

Bolivian Highlights.

EASY ACCESS AMAZON.

Let a hollowed out canoe transport you back in time on an action packed adventure complete with anaconda hunting, pink dolphins & piranha fishing. 

XTREME MINING IN POTOSI.

Pay homage to El Tio armed only with dynamite, coca leaves & 100% proof alcohol. We have mixed feelings about the voyeuristic nature of this tour, and be warned that one of our claustrophobic friends was so worried she took a Xanax (she admitted later it was unnecessary). But whatever your position on the tour or small spaces, at the very least you'll gain a new appreciation for the trade... & living above ground.

PARTY ON THE ALTIPLANO.

Acclimatize with coca tea at one of La Paz's mega hostels, where the party never stops. Need help? Hit up one of the famous cocaine bars in town. More info here.

WAKING DREAMS IN UYUNI.

Pink & green lakes, homes made entirely of salt, llamas, mummies, and mountain flamingos... In Uyuni, the glorious salt flats are just the warm up on an adventure you'll never forget.

Bolivian Lowlights.

OTHER BACKPACKERS.

You'll never be too far away from a backpacker, but the travelers that make it here tend to be more intrepid that the typical gap-year crowd. 

ALTITUDE SICKNESS.

From slightly winded to totally incapacitated by the slightest incline (which makes for excellent people watching), no one is immune.

Don't panic if your nose starts bleeding at 15,000 feet -- locals insist this isn't anything to worry about, though when it happens to you it's pretty easy to have doubts.More on how to deal with altitude sickness in Bolivia can be found here.

LONG BUS TRIPS.

On long haul trips, the hours and even days cooped up in the cabin can seem like a rare form of torture. Bring snacks, a flexible schedule and plenty of reading material if you want to make it out alive. Read more about transportation in Bolivia here.

Locals.

When engaged, Bolivians are incredibly friendly and laid back with an easy to understand Spanish.

That said, most will not go out of their way to chat you up unless you're stuck on a bus together, especially indigenous women who may not speak Spanish. You'll see a surprising amount of traditional dress -- look for the unmissable boller hat, pigtail combo.

Guides.

Often grumpy, lacking English skills or even worse, drunk, guides can make or break a trip when you're stuck with them for several days. Make sure you speak with them before committing.

On the flip side, a few days of bonding can leave you with a new friend who might just take you to visit their family or out for a night on the town if you play your cards right. The mine guides in Potosi are particularly friendly.

Other Travelers.

Interacting with your fellow backpackers in Bolivia can be a refreshing change. Because it’s generally not a destination on it’s own, nearly everyone will be on some sort of extended journey through South America and will be more than willing to trade war stories or chat you up for a little piece of home.

You will most likely not run into any Americans, but you will run into at least Israeli contingency. Usually fresh out of the army, Bolivia is seen as a good place to hang and take the occasional tour because of it’s cheap prices. They often stay in Israeli hostels however and have created an unfortunate reputation amongst the locals.

On the other end, you’ll find a lot of young Argentinian and Chilean “hippies” who subsist on wages garnered through performing on the streets. Equally friendly, they usually set up camp outside of the main mega hostels and hanging with them can be an interesting exploration in fire-twirling, dreadlock composition and bracelet making.

YOU'LL SEE EVERY TRAVELER IN BOLIVIA WEARING...

A llama wool sweater, picked up on the main shopping street in La Paz and worn for the entire duration of the trip.

Try as you might, you will eventually get one too.

Per Day: US $20-$30

The cheapest in South America & an excellent value if you plan to live, eat and travel like a local.

Activities & Extracurriculars.

Jungle, biking, climbing and Salt Flat trips are all inclusive (food, accommodations, transport) and astonishingly inexpensive if you don't book ahead of time and are willing to negotiate. There are plenty of other temptations (alcohol, shopping, drugs) that will increase costs for some.

Packing Strategy.

Things are so cheap you don't have to worry about too much despite the wild variation in temperatures. La Paz has everything you could need from locally produced llama wool sweaters to outdoor equipment and the surprisingly common Beyonce towel. A few notes:

• It can get wet during the season, so if the forecast calls for rain a waterproof shell might be handy to protect that llama sweater, but will probably be too hot for the jungle.
• In the jungle you need insect repellant and the locals will insist on outfitting you in a white jumpsuit they swear repels the bugs. More about this in the Mosquito Survival Guide.
• It gets pretty wild on the altiplano, but you're in the car the majority of the time so you really only need blankets for the night (usually provided if you look cold enough).

For more, visit our Packing Survival Guide here.

Guidebook Recommendation.

The Lonely Planet South America was spotted most on the ground, but for those more interested in Bolivia, we find the Rough Guide to be the most up to date. Footprint is especially good for Bolivia but rarely carried, so best if you're actively trying to avoid the Lonely Planet crowds. There's also a new guide coming out in January 2015 that's available for pre-order now.

Read our review of the top guidebook brands and how to use them here.

As part of a South America trip...

Lake Titicaca to La Paz, to the jungle (Rurrenbaque) sometimes via a mountain bike ride to Coroico - back to La Paz - Sucre to Potosi to Uyuni to Chile/La Paz (or reverse if coming from Chile, not Peru/La Paz)

You won’t find too many travelers doing “just” Bolivia, but it’s well worth it.

If You Have MORE Time, We Recommend...

Other Favorites: Oruro, Cochabamba, Santa Cruz, cruise down river mamore

Miss At Your Peril.

• Salt Flats (preferably on an overland trip from Chile through the altiplano)
• Potosi
• Isla Del Sol
• Chola Wrestling (if you’re into that)

Booking Tours In Bolivia.

Bolivia is indisputably 'backpacker central' and an industry has sprung up to provide easy, cheap and comfortable tours tailored to young travelers. So much so that you could easily explore the jungle, silver miners, salt flats, 'death' road, etc., without ever having to take local transportation, interact with locals (apart from guides). All to a soundtrack of contemporary dance music. These tours make seeing Bolivia easy, cheap and fun (if you get lucky with others in your group).

Buyer Beware.

Don’t be afraid to shop around for your tour.

Usually the offices are all in a row and you can pit the prices against each other to find the best deal. Bear in mind that once you commit, you’ll be stuck with whatever driver, food and accommodations they give you so it’s not a bad idea to get what you’ve been promised in writing and to meet the driver if you’re at all concerned.

For us it’s usually more about what people we'll be stuck with for a few days, so we always ask for the ages and nationalities (or to meet) any fellow travelers before striking a deal. 

YOU Might Not Get What You Paid For.

Bear in mind that in the lower seasons these companies often work together so even if you sign up with one group, you’ll be thrown in with the patrons of other tour companies to fill up a car. This can be annoying if you’ve paid for the highest priced trip and get thrown in with people who paid half of what you did.

Drunk & Grumpy Guides.

Even though the guy behind the desk says he will, the guides often don’t speak English.

For tours like the Salt Flats, ask for a map and literature (in English) so you know what you’re looking at if you can’t communicate with your driver.

During the holidays especially, there have been reports of drunk guides. Though this might not seem like the end of the world when you’re driving on a completely empty desert, we heard of a group who got lost for two days because their guide passed out at the wheel. Incredibly annoying or an incredible adventure depending on your attitude (& food supply!)

Per Night: <$10

Deals can be found if you venture just slightly off the beaten path (to the "artist hostels" that cater to Argentinian and Chilean career travelers) and in Sucre where many stay for long-term Spanish courses. La Paz plays host to a number of "mega hostels". They're not the cheapest, but they're like staying in an all-inclusive, complete with travel desk, security, restaurant, bar, etc. The most popular are Red Rover & Loki La Paz.

Good To Know.

Accommodation is generally divided into two camps: hostels run by Gringos with unexpectedly clean rooms and perks like hair straighteners and those arranged by overnight tours -- which are a crapshoot. Make sure you are comfortable with the lodging before committing to a packaged tour.

Temperature & Hot Water.

It can get seriously cold at night on the altiplano but skip the sleeping bag and ask for extra blankets. Hot water may be hard to come by outside of La Paz, so if you need it, ask ahead of time. Hostels in the jungle are the opposite. Plan your mosquito defenses ahead of time or click [here] for more tips.

Outside of grumpy guides, the hassles are limited.

In local bars there seems to be some hostility towards groups of gringos (directed more at men than women) but smiles can break the ice.

Transportation.

Long bus rides can wear on you if you don't spring for a flight.

Women Alone.

Be careful at night or if you find yourself the only participant on a tour to a remote area (like the jungle). 

Food.

Some good, cheap food with plenty of vegetarian options.

Drinks.

Mate de Coca, a tea made from coca leaves (as in the raw material for cocaine production) is widely available, drunk and cherished throughout the country and can be helpful with altitude sickness. Don't get too excited though, you would need to be a fairly professional chewer (the locals build up large lumps of chewed leaves in their cheeks, hamster style) or drink a lot of tea to have any real effect beyond that of strong coffee.

Flights.

Without a budget airline network, flights can get pricy compared to buses – but that doesn’t mean their expensive. Flights between La Paz, Rurrenebaque and Santa Cruz can be purchased on the ground fairly easily online or in airline offices for set prices. More info on airlines [here]

One piece of advice on the lips of every Bolivian traveler – fly to Rurrenebaque. Not only is it an incredible journey from the snowcapped Andes to the low-lying Pampas, but you’ll save  yourself the misery of the unpredictable bus ride. However, if there’s bad weather, the flight schedule can get backed up so make sure to give yourself a day or two as a buffer if you’re on a tight schedule.

Bus.

Most roads are okay with frequent trips between the fairly well organized stations in most major cities. Buses are operated by private companies, each of which have their own little booth in the station and which run on their own schedules.Bus trips in Bolivia are long so most feature reclining seats, double decks, and liberal air conditioning. It’s a good idea to pick up a bus blanket. Rural roads, on the other hand, are terrible or non-existent.

TRAINS.

Considered worse than buses (a first for this train enthusiast), trains can get very cold at night and are very slow.

BOATS.

Nothing quite compares to the sight of a double decker bus being ushered across a lake by poles -- not a motor.

We've had problems negotiating fares to Isla del Sol, but many times the price of ferry will be included in the cost of your bus ticket to Lake Titicaca, so be sure to ask.

Hitching.

In rural areas the locals will be more than happy to give you a lift and a taste of the local life. Best attempted with a friend rather than alone.

Malaria.

A possibility in Rurrenebaque and around, but medication isn't absolutely necessary if you're going to be there less than two weeks. Bring bug spray and make sure your accommodations have nets in this area. Read more in our Mosquito Survival Guide.

Food & Water.

Don't drink the water and watch out for food poisoning. 

Altitude.

Take it VERY easy for the first few days – it’s common to have a terrible headache before acclimatizing and many take altitude sickness medicine before they even land. Ask your doctor, especially if you have asthma – my companion on this trip spent the majority of her time huffing and puffing up and down mountains like an asthmatic champion.

Dangers.

Fairly safe for travelers by regional standards. There have been reports of violent crime, but rarely towards tourists (if ever) aside from a few late-night muggings. Watch for petty thieves on public buses and in markets. I did experience a few opportunists trying to sell “entry tickets” to hiking trails on Isla del Sol but they were easily brushed aside if approached confidently.

Police.

Often corrupt or prejudiced towards the backpacker set. Don't assume they're on your side.  Overall very lax, but there have been nightmare stories of foreigners imprisoned in the famous La Paz prison, which has become a tourist destination in and of itself thanks to the book, “Marching Powder”.

Getting A Visa.

In keeping with Bolivia's general disdain for America, US citizens must part with $135. Pretty much everyone else can get a free pass at the border. More info [here]

Language.

The easy to understand Spanish is a welcome change for visitors coming from countries like Argentina and Chile. Don’t count on anyone speaking English, though you’ll probably find at least one person in every hostel or tourist office you can communicate with.

Internet.

Plenty of fast wifi in hostels and designated cafes.

Cash/ATMS.

ATMs are plentiful in the larger cities but US dollars are of course willingly changed or accepted even in the more remote locales, although credit cards are not. USD can be brought from home (make sure they’re in good shape) or at the ATM in the La Paz airport. Currencies from other South American countries can be exchanged in popular border areas.

 If you’re in a bind, head into a travel agency and ask for a cash advance from your credit card. Most will do it for a small percentage.

Recommended Reading.

Marching Powder

Culture Shock, Bolivia

Drugs.

Still highly illegal, the attitude is more tolerant in La Paz where 'Cocaine Bars' are set up for tourists to sample the famous marching powder. If you're interested in making some bad decisions, the names Eddies Place and Route 36 are the most notorious options. The rumor is that the police general of La Paz is the owner of Route 36 and that's how they get away with everything.

How To Get There.

Simply jump in a cab. Every driver knows where Route 36 is, and i’m pretty sure it is probably on their license test. It is actually walking distance from both Loki and Wild Rover Hostels but each night its probably easier (and safer) to get a cab.

No Locals.

It is purely a Gringo affair as no locals are allowed inside, which is kind of awkward although we've been assured that the owners have paid off "all the right people" to keep the bar out of trouble.

Prices & Quality.

Prices at Route 36 are 200 Bolivianos per gram, which equates to about USD35. Eddies Place is supposed to be considerably cheaper, but no-one we talked to could give us a firm price, so perhaps it changes as their supply does.

We were also told that the quality at Route 36 is not amazing, and many people commented that it was probably cut with speed/methamphetamine... but the bottled water is free!

Atmosphere & What To Expect.

Both places are very laid back apparently. Music is playing, but not extremely loud, and anyone with an iPod or smart phone can go up and dj for a bit if they want.

Generally it is just a few different group of people all sitting round and chatting, and passing around plates and straws to use the cocaine. Very little dancing as everyone seems happy chatting to each other and meeting new people. This changes later in the evening once everyone is sufficiently geeked out.

Additional Reading.

 http://www.theguardian.com/world/2009/aug/19/bolivia-cocaine-bar-route-36

We try to keep it brief, so if you're planning a Bolivia trip and we missed something, just let us know. If you include your email address we'll get back to you with a personalized answer lickity-split.

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